Mountaineering Expedition

Trango Towers Big-Wall Expedition

Big-wall climbing on the Trango group above the Baltoro — the Nameless Tower and Great Trango, among the tallest granite walls on earth.

6,286 mGreat Trango
6,239 mNameless Tower
35 – 45 daysDuration
June – AugustSeason
Overview

Granite on a grand scale

The Trango towers rise straight out of the Trango glacier, a day off the Baltoro trail beyond Paiju. Their walls are well over a kilometre of steep granite, and every route on them is a serious, committing big-wall climb for experienced teams.

We know the area well. Our association with Trango goes back to the German Trango Tower expedition of 1989 – 91, and we can help with portering loads of wall gear, base camp on the glacier and the paperwork that a climbing permit requires.

Levels of service

For self-sufficient teams

Base camp service

We handle everything up to base camp and back: permits and the liaison officer, the briefing at the Ministry of Tourism, flights, hotels, transport, porters, the base camp cook and kitchen, tents and fuel.

Your team climbs independently above base camp.

For climbers who want a team on the mountain

Full support

Everything in base camp service, plus experienced high-altitude porters, fixed ropes, stocked high camps and oxygen on the 8,000 m peaks.

We match the team to the route and to your experience.

Day-by-day itinerary

  1. Days 1 – 3

    Islamabad & Skardu

    Briefing, the flight to Skardu and final preparations.

  2. Days 4 – 6

    To Trango base camp

    Jeep to Askole, then walk via Jhola and Paiju up onto the Trango glacier.

  3. Days 7 – 32

    Climbing period

    Load carries to the foot of the wall and time on the route.

  4. Days 33 – 38

    Return

    Walk out to Askole and drive to Skardu for the flight to Islamabad.

Safety on the mountain

Every expedition carries a satellite phone and a full medical kit. Helicopter rescue is arranged in advance, with the bond lodged before you leave Islamabad. Weather forecasts are relayed to base camp throughout the climb.

We have supported expeditions in the Karakoram and Himalaya since the 1980s, from the German Trango Tower expedition to Reinhold Messner on Nanga Parbat in 2000.

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