Mountaineering Expedition

Spantik Expedition

A 7,000 m peak with a non-technical normal route — a natural step up for climbers preparing for the 8,000 m peaks.

7,027 mSummit
c. 30 daysDuration
July – AugustSeason
South-east ridgeUsual route
Overview

The Golden Peak

Spantik is known as the Golden Peak for the marble north-west face that glows at sunset above Nagar. The normal route climbs the long south-east ridge from the Chogolungma glacier, approached from the village of Arandu in Baltistan. It is a snow climb with sections of fixed rope on 45 – 50° slopes, and needs solid crampon and ice-axe skills rather than hard technical climbing.

Previous experience on a 6,000 m peak is recommended. Three camps above base camp give a steady build-up of altitude before the summit day.

Levels of service

For self-sufficient teams

Base camp service

We handle everything up to base camp and back: permits and the liaison officer, the briefing at the Ministry of Tourism, flights, hotels, transport, porters, the base camp cook and kitchen, tents and fuel.

Your team climbs independently above base camp.

For climbers who want a team on the mountain

Full support

Everything in base camp service, plus experienced high-altitude porters, fixed ropes, stocked high camps and oxygen on the 8,000 m peaks.

We match the team to the route and to your experience.

Day-by-day itinerary

  1. Days 1 – 3

    Islamabad & Skardu

    Briefing, the flight to Skardu and final preparations.

  2. Days 4 – 8

    Approach to base camp

    Jeep to Arandu, then walk up the Chogolungma glacier via Bolocho to base camp at about 4,300 m.

  3. Days 9 – 24

    Climbing period

    Camps on the south-east ridge and a summit push in good weather.

  4. Days 25 – 30

    Return

    Walk out to Arandu, drive to Skardu and fly to Islamabad.

Safety on the mountain

Every expedition carries a satellite phone and a full medical kit. Helicopter rescue is arranged in advance, with the bond lodged before you leave Islamabad. Weather forecasts are relayed to base camp throughout the climb.

We have supported expeditions in the Karakoram and Himalaya since the 1980s, from the German Trango Tower expedition to Reinhold Messner on Nanga Parbat in 2000.

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