Mountaineering Expedition

Nanga Parbat Expedition

The ninth-highest mountain on earth and the western anchor of the Himalaya, climbed from base camp in the Diamer valley.

8,126 mSummit
c. 45 daysDuration
June – AugustSeason
Kinshofer routeUsual route
Overview

The naked mountain

Nanga Parbat stands alone above the Indus, with an enormous height gain from its valleys to the summit. Hermann Buhl reached the top alone in 1953, after a long series of tragic German attempts. Its three faces — Rakhiot, Diamer and Rupal — each give a very different climb.

Most expeditions today climb the Kinshofer route on the Diamer face: a steep, technical lower wall followed by long snow slopes to the summit. Base camp is reached in two or three days from the Karakoram Highway, so the approach is far shorter than on the Baltoro peaks. In 2000 we supported Reinhold Messner’s expedition to the mountain.

Levels of service

For self-sufficient teams

Base camp service

We handle everything up to base camp and back: permits and the liaison officer, the briefing at the Ministry of Tourism, flights, hotels, transport, porters, the base camp cook and kitchen, tents and fuel.

Your team climbs independently above base camp.

For climbers who want a team on the mountain

Full support

Everything in base camp service, plus experienced high-altitude porters, fixed ropes, stocked high camps and oxygen on the 8,000 m peaks.

We match the team to the route and to your experience.

Day-by-day itinerary

  1. Days 1 – 3

    Islamabad & Chilas

    Briefing in Islamabad, then by road to Chilas.

  2. Days 4 – 6

    Approach to base camp

    Jeep to the road head and walk up the Diamer valley to base camp.

  3. Days 7 – 40

    Climbing period

    Rotations on the Kinshofer wall and the upper slopes, and a summit push in good weather.

  4. Days 41 – 45

    Return

    Walk out to the road head and drive back to Islamabad.

Safety on the mountain

Every expedition carries a satellite phone and a full medical kit. Helicopter rescue is arranged in advance, with the bond lodged before you leave Islamabad. Weather forecasts are relayed to base camp throughout the climb.

We have supported expeditions in the Karakoram and Himalaya since the 1980s, from the German Trango Tower expedition to Reinhold Messner on Nanga Parbat in 2000.

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