Mountaineering Expedition

Laila Peak Expedition

A striking spear of snow and ice above the Gondogoro glacier in the Hushe valley — one of the most photographed peaks in the Karakoram.

6,096 mSummit
c. 23 daysDuration
June – AugustSeason
North-west faceUsual route
Overview

Steep ice in the Hushe valley

Laila Peak rises in an almost perfect point above the Gondogoro glacier. The normal route climbs a long, steep snow and ice face of up to 50 – 55°, with fixed ropes on the upper section. It is a serious climb for its height, best suited to climbers with alpine experience who want a technical 6,000 m summit.

The approach is short — two days’ walk from Hushe — and base camp sits in meadows with views of Masherbrum, so there is plenty of time on the mountain.

Levels of service

For self-sufficient teams

Base camp service

We handle everything up to base camp and back: permits and the liaison officer, the briefing at the Ministry of Tourism, flights, hotels, transport, porters, the base camp cook and kitchen, tents and fuel.

Your team climbs independently above base camp.

For climbers who want a team on the mountain

Full support

Everything in base camp service, plus experienced high-altitude porters, fixed ropes, stocked high camps and oxygen on the 8,000 m peaks.

We match the team to the route and to your experience.

Day-by-day itinerary

  1. Days 1 – 3

    Islamabad & Skardu

    Briefing, the flight to Skardu and final preparations.

  2. Days 4 – 6

    Hushe to base camp

    Drive via Khaplu to Hushe and walk via Saicho to base camp.

  3. Days 7 – 17

    Climbing period

    Acclimatization, an advanced camp on the glacier and a summit attempt.

  4. Days 18 – 23

    Return

    Walk out to Hushe, drive to Skardu and fly to Islamabad.

Safety on the mountain

Every expedition carries a satellite phone and a full medical kit. Helicopter rescue is arranged in advance, with the bond lodged before you leave Islamabad. Weather forecasts are relayed to base camp throughout the climb.

We have supported expeditions in the Karakoram and Himalaya since the 1980s, from the German Trango Tower expedition to Reinhold Messner on Nanga Parbat in 2000.

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