Mountaineering Expedition

Gasherbrum I & II Expedition

Two 8,000 m peaks from one base camp at the head of the Baltoro — climb one, or both in a single season.

8,080 mGasherbrum I
8,035 mGasherbrum II
45 – 55 daysDuration
Mid-June – early AugustSeason
Overview

Hidden Peak and its neighbour

Gasherbrum I, also called Hidden Peak because it cannot be seen from the Baltoro, was first climbed by an American team in 1958. Gasherbrum II, first climbed by Austrians in 1956, is often thought the most approachable of the Karakoram’s 8,000 m peaks. They share a base camp on the Abruzzi glacier and the same icefall up to the high plateau of the Gasherbrum cirque.

Climbers who acclimatize on Gasherbrum II often go on to attempt Gasherbrum I in the same expedition. We plan the longer itinerary for that.

Levels of service

For self-sufficient teams

Base camp service

We handle everything up to base camp and back: permits and the liaison officer, the briefing at the Ministry of Tourism, flights, hotels, transport, porters, the base camp cook and kitchen, tents and fuel.

Your team climbs independently above base camp.

For climbers who want a team on the mountain

Full support

Everything in base camp service, plus experienced high-altitude porters, fixed ropes, stocked high camps and oxygen on the 8,000 m peaks.

We match the team to the route and to your experience.

Day-by-day itinerary

  1. Days 1 – 4

    Islamabad & Skardu

    Briefing, the flight to Skardu and final preparations.

  2. Days 5 – 13

    The Baltoro approach

    Askole to Concordia, then up the Abruzzi glacier to Gasherbrum base camp at about 5,000 m.

  3. Days 14 – 37

    Climbing period

    Through the icefall to the camps of the Gasherbrum cirque, and summit attempts as the weather allows.

  4. Days 38 – 45

    Return

    Walk out to Askole, drive to Skardu and fly to Islamabad. Allow up to ten more days for a double ascent.

Safety on the mountain

Every expedition carries a satellite phone and a full medical kit. Helicopter rescue is arranged in advance, with the bond lodged before you leave Islamabad. Weather forecasts are relayed to base camp throughout the climb.

We have supported expeditions in the Karakoram and Himalaya since the 1980s, from the German Trango Tower expedition to Reinhold Messner on Nanga Parbat in 2000.

Plan Your Trip

Let’s build your package together

Tell us about your event or holiday and we will design a program that fits your needs, interests and budget.

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